There is a special providence in the stock of a soup; it’s derived from the way its ingredients are combined, how long it’s left to simmer, and what garnishes are added at the glorious end of the process. For a chef, it can be a barometer for the amount of love and effort put into a dish.
Just south of Danang, if you follow the famed China Beach to the small waterway town of Hoi An, you’ll find no shortage of love or effort in the holy grail of Asian noodle dishes, Mi Quang (mì Quảng).
The base of mì Quảng comes from a stock called Nuoc Leo, a pork reduction that competes with a well-made ramen broth in Japan, mixed with spices like ginger, fish sauce, and shallots, to create a richly flavoured broth. The broth is then poured over yellow tinted rice noodles (tinted by turmeric, chosen for both its flavour and its homeopathic qualities).