Notes From the Road: Vienna to Budapest Wine Country Biking

Vienna and Budapest, like Austria and Hungary, complement each other like yin and yang. Hence the perfect combination for my new Vienna to Budapest Wine Country Biking trip. The culture, history, landscapes and cuisine in many respects are opposites, which is why it is great to experience them together. 

Vienna is consistently ranked as the world’s most liveable city and is the world’s second-largest German-speaking city. As a German, travelling through this part of Austria always felt like a place close to home (Berlin) but different enough to be exciting.   

Austria’s capital is cosmopolitan, the seat of many international organizations and institutions. It is grand, having been the capital of the Habsburg Empire for 600 years. At the same time, it's an unparalleled mix of the traditional and the contemporary, the conservative and the progressive, the global and local. It’s a gateway to the less-known eastern parts of Central Europe. Above all, we’re very well connected in this region and can show travellers “our” Vienna, personally and through local eyes. 

Budapest is the city where Tibor Barna, B&R’s Regional Expert and my close colleague studied and lived for many years. The turbulent history shows in its architecture and even a one-time visitor can sense how each building tells a testament to centuries past.  

The ancient castle of Buda, the lavish 19th c. palaces, the communist blocks and the modern high rises all have a tale to tell and contrast each other in spectacular fashion. While there are so many unique experiences to discover through Budapest’s rich arts and music scene, a definite highlight is the numerous baths one can visit in the city.  

For history buffs, the Austro-Hungarian Empire offers the possibility to compare post-war European history and its actual influences on the current lives of everyday people in these great European cities. 

We’ll visit the border crossing between Austria and Hungary where the famous Pan-European picnic was organized in 1989. Many say this was the first crack in the Iron Curtain. An event meant to celebrate friendship and peace turned out to be one of the most important events of the Cold War. They opened the border for three hours so that locals from the villages on either side could meet and have a picnic together. Former politician Laszlo Nagy was one of the organizers of this event. He’ll meet us at the crossing and shed light upon the events of 1989 over lunch. 

Austria’s capital is an enticing mix of old and new and one of the world’s most beautiful cultural hubs. One element I’m looking forward to sharing with travellers the most is on Day 1 when we have a 17th c. Jesuit Baroque Church all to ourselves as one of the country’s best organists and pianists plays the church’s organ for us. A fantastic start to the trip certain to induce lasting goosebumps!  

We show travellers the little-known vineyards within city limits and start introducing the surprising wines of the region. Vienna is home to 700 hectares of vineyards and about 140 vintners just north of the centre. The Danube and the proximity to the woods provide optimal conditions for growing grapes, and the paths through the hills are just beautiful. We follow these paths through the mountains on Day 1, arriving at a rustic tavern for lunch. 

Day 2 focuses on the area around Lake Neusiedl, where travellers will bike on paths through vineyards to arrive at the Relais & Châteaux Taubenkobel just in time for a fabulous dinner at their Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s one of the best and most innovative restaurants in Central Europe. With a full wine tasting and pairing, travellers will have the ultimate introduction to the world-class wines of Austria 

In Hungary, we taste the best of Hungarian wines and dine at local wineries around Lake Balaton, an area akin to the Italian countryside with its rolling hills and vineyards. Our bike ride through the lake’s northern shores is like biking through a little slice of Tuscany.  

Hungary’s dominant highlight is Lake Balaton, the largest body of water in Central and Eastern Europe and a playground for locals looking for blue skies and water to match. LUA Resort is nestled on the shores of the lake, one of the best hotels on Lake Balaton and our home away from home for two nights. Travellers will be able to make use of the heated outdoor pools, a jacuzzi, three types of saunas and a steam room—the perfect way to rejuvenate after exploring the area on two wheels.

We have limited time in Budapest, but entering the city in true B&R style is the way to do it: by private boat on the Danube (with champagne in hand!). It’s one of the few big cities along the Danube, where the river crosses the city centre. As we arrive by boat, we already see all the iconic buildings of the city—it really is the most beautiful entry to our final night Michelin-starred celebration. 

Feeling inspired to make this experience your own? Reserve your spot on our Vienna to Budapest Wine Country Biking trip for September 2023.